NOW IT IS TIME TO get out the laminate cutter (really just a small router). With it fitted with a downward spiral bit, you cut the circular slots that accept the rosette and its purfeling. You also use it to cut out the sound hole as the very last step. It all revolves around a 1/4 inch pin set into a flat plywood base. Maybe the pictures will explain
 start with a piece of scrap on which you can plan the cuts and their distance from the center pin. You also use the scrap to make test cuts so you know you are correct when you take the router to your uke top.  The first cut has been made, just deep enough to seat the rosette but not so deep that it will break through the top when it is thinned . Now the device is re-adjusted to widen the slot to accept all that you wish to put in it.  The rosette is now placed into the groove and its chosen purfling is inserted around it. When all is in place, flood the margins with super glue. It will flow down and around everything and fix it in place. Let it set overnight to be safe and then take it to the surface sander to sand down the ring backing as well as to release the sound hole plug. |  I have drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the sound hole location and inserted the pin through it and into the board below. The plastic device attached to the router indexes over the pin and allow you to spin the router around the pin cutting the perfect circle. It is of course adjustable.  Now the bit is set to make a deeper cut, almost all the way through the top but not quite. This cut is for the sound hole. Now we will turn the top over and sand the back until the hole appears.  Here is the ring and purfling flooded with superglue. This looks like it might stain the wood but fear not it all sands away. Tomorrow I will show you the final result. |
